Nānā Kūlana · Puna 2027 · Kāmaʻa wāwae
Nā kuʻekuʻe wāwae nahesa, he momi ma ka vamp, ʻili nahesa, a me nā pāpale gula: nā ʻano kāmaʻa ʻehā o ka pūnāwai 2027
Ma ka lā 29 o Kepakemapa 2026, ua hōʻike ʻo Saint Laurent i kāna hōʻiliʻili lole wahine no ka pūnāwai 2027 ma Trocadéro ma Palisa - 49 o nā hiʻohiʻona 59 i puka mai i ke gula. He ʻumi lā ma hope mai, ua hōʻoia ka hale ua hoʻopau ʻo Anthony Vaccarello i kāna noho ʻana he ʻumi makahiki, ka mea i hoʻolilo i ka hōʻike i kona aloha. Ua "holo mālie" nā kāmaʻa gula ma ke ala holo a lilo i mea kamaʻilio o ka Paris Fashion Week. Ua hoʻokaʻawale ka loiloi kāmaʻa o WWD i ke kau i ʻehā mau ʻano; hahai mākou i ke kaʻina like.
He nānā ʻana kēia i ke au. ʻAʻole ia e hōʻike ana i ka launa pū ʻana, ka laikini a i ʻole ka pilina sub-contracting me kekahi brand i ʻōlelo ʻia. He mea paʻi nā kiʻi o ke kahua holo; aia nā kuleana me ko lākou mau mea nona a hoʻohana ʻia lākou ma ʻaneʻi no ka hōʻike ʻana i ke au wale nō.
No ke aha e pono ai ke heluhelu ʻia kēia kau
ʻElua nalu nūhou: ka hōʻike, a laila ka puka
Nalu 1 · 29 Sep 2026, ka hōʻike
Ua uhi ʻia nā kāmaʻa ma o lākou iho
Ua kapa ka pākaukau kāmaʻa o WWD i nā kāmaʻa o ka hōʻiliʻili ʻo ia ke kamaʻilio nui ʻia o ka Paris Fashion Week a ua holo i ʻekolu mau ʻāpana kāmaʻa i loko o ʻekolu lā: kahi loiloi o ke au, kahi hōʻike kokoke me 17 mau kiʻi, a me kahi hōʻike kāmaʻa ma ka lālani mua.
Nalu 2 · 9 ʻOkakopa 2026, ka puka
Hoʻopau ʻia kahi manawa he ʻumi makahiki
Ua hōʻoia ʻia nā lono o ka haʻalele ʻana he mau pule ma ka lā 9 o ʻOkakopa. Ua ukali ʻia e WWD, Vogue, W Magazine, Harper's Bazaar, Wallpaper, The Cut a me ka NYT, e hoʻolōʻihi ana i ke kamaʻilio ʻana no ʻelua pule hou aʻe.
Ua hoʻolālā ʻia nā kāmaʻa ponoʻī e Vaccarello me ka luna hoʻolālā manawaleʻa o ka hale no nā kāmaʻa kāne a me nā wahine.ʻO Corrado De Biase, nāna i lawe i ke kumumanaʻo gula o ka hōʻiliʻili a hiki i nā wāwae. Ua hoʻolako ka hōʻike i nā mea he nui nona iho: 59 mau hiʻohiʻona, ʻo 49 mua i ke gula, ʻo 10 hope loa i ka ʻeleʻele; ʻekolu mau chandelier kaila candelabra gula nui ma luna o kahi ala holo ʻeleʻele. Ua paʻi ʻia nā hale kūʻai ʻōlelo Kina - Toodaylab, ELLE Kina, Forbes Kina, Sina, FashionNetwork.cn - i loko o nā lā o 1 ʻOkakopa.
No ke ana ʻana i ke ana ponoʻī, ʻekolu mau hōʻailona lehulehu e pono ke nānā ʻia: inā paha e hoʻokumu ʻo Google Trends i kahi piko pālua ma ka lā 29 Kepakemapa a me 9 ʻOkakopa, ka nui ma ka papa inoa trending o Weibo, a me kahi o ke kau ma ka papa inoa i nānā nui ʻia o Vogue Runway. ʻAʻole mākou e hōʻike i nā helu helu nānā ʻaʻohe kumu hiki ke hōʻoia.
ʻAno 1 · Ke kihi ikaika loa
Nā kuʻekuʻe wāwae nahesa kiʻi: kū nā mea kū i ke kau ma luna o kahi nahesa
Ma nā ʻōlelo a WWD, nā kaila koʻikoʻi loa o ka papa inoakū ma luna o nā kuʻekuʻe wāwae ʻano piʻo e like me nā nahesa e kolo anaMa ka hōʻike like, ua ʻike ʻia nā kaulahao metala gula ma luna o kekahi mau kāmaʻa, e hana ana i "kahi manaʻo o ka nani akahai a ikaika" - ma kekahi mau kaila, ua hiki aku nā kaulahao ma nā manamana wāwae a hālāwai me kahi momi nui a nani hoʻi ma waenakonu o ka vamp.
ʻO ia ke kihi ikaika loa o ke kau no ka meaʻaʻole hiki ke ukali ʻia e ka hoʻololi ʻana i kahi kala— pono e hoʻoheheʻe hou ʻia ke kino kuʻekuʻe wāwae holoʻokoʻa. A ʻo ia ka ʻāpana e pono ai i kahi hale hana kāmaʻa ke pane.
ʻAno 2 · Nā kaulahao gula a me ka momi ma ka vamp
Nā kaulahao ma nā manamana wāwae, e hālāwai ana me hoʻokahi momi ma ke kikowaena o ka vamp
ʻO ka lua o ka mea o WWDnā kaulahao metala i hoʻonani ʻia, hoʻohana ʻia ma kekahi mau kāmaʻa e kūkulu i kēlā "glamour akahai a ikaika". ʻO ka mana i ʻike nui ʻia: hiki nā kaulahao ma nā manamana wāwae, pālahalaha ma luna o ka wāwae ae hālāwai me kahi momi nui a nani hoʻi ma waenakonu o ka vampʻAʻole ke gula ma ʻaneʻi he poloka kala - he hoʻonohonoho ia o nā laina.
ʻAno 3 · ʻIli nahesa a me ke kālai ʻana i nā reptile
Ke hoʻomau nei ka nahesa i luna: beige, uliuli, a me kahi kiʻi reptilian mālie ma ka manamana wāwae
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo WWD ua hōʻike ʻia kekahi mau kāmaʻaʻili nahesa i nā kala e like me ka beige kūlike a i ʻole ka uliuli; ua lawe ʻia nā kāmaʻa kaulahao ʻē aʻe i kahihe kiʻi reptilian gula maalea e hoʻopili ana ma ka manamana wāwaeI loko o hoʻokahi kau, noho ka nahesa ma ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae a ma luna - ʻo ka mua he pilikia kūkulu, ʻo ka lua he pilikia ʻili.
ʻAno Hou 4 · Nā kāʻei kua gula me nā manamana wāwae
Ua neʻe ke gula i ka manamana wāwae: nā slingbacks cap-toe i ka satin, nā manamana wāwae ʻoi a me nā vamps ʻoki huinahā
ʻO ke ʻano ʻehā, ʻo ia kapāpale manamana wāwae gula: kahi papa inoa o nā pamu slingback me kahi pāpale metala koʻikoʻi ma ka manamana wāwae, e mālama ana i ʻelua mau pūlima hale —nā manamana wāwae ʻoi i hoʻolōʻihi ʻiaa menā vamp ʻoki huinahāHe satin nā kino, ma nā aka e holo ana mai nā leo momi a hiki i nā neutral.
ʻO ka mea nui ma mua o kēlā me kēia pālua hoʻokahipehea i hōʻike ʻia ai lākou: ʻo ka pamu like i pālahalaha ʻia i ka ʻulaʻula, burgundy, ʻōmaʻomaʻo ʻeleʻele, brown, poni a me ka ʻeleʻele —hoʻokahi silhouette i lawe ʻia ma ke ala holoʻokoʻa ma ke kāleka kalaHoʻohālikelike ia i ke kumu ponoʻī o ka hōʻiliʻili: ua wehewehe ka hale e ʻae ke gula i ka mea hoʻolālā e ʻimi"ka mana o ka hana hou ʻana", ke ʻano āna i ʻimi mua ai i ka silhouette - gula hohonu, gula Byzantine, gula pale, gula Renaissance, gula matte, gula Art Deco, gula ʻālohilohi. Ma kahi runway hōʻailona ia i kahi ʻano a ka brand e manaʻo nei e hoʻokuke aku ma ke ʻano he kaila koʻikoʻi; ma ke kālepa ʻana, ʻo ia hoʻi ke kauoha hou ʻana.
ʻO Yves Saint Laurent ma ke kala: "Aloha au i ke gula, he kala kilokilo ia. Ke hōʻike nei i kahi wahine, ʻo ia ke kala o ka lā." I kēia kau, ua kūkulu ʻia kēlā ʻōlelo i loko o nā kāmaʻa.
Pehea e pae ai i loko o kahi hale hana
ʻEhā mau ʻano, ʻekolu mau nīnau ma ko mākou ʻaoʻao
Hihia ʻekahi · ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae nahesa
Mai kahi puʻu ʻili python-print a hiki i kahi nahesa i kāʻei ʻia a puni ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae
Ua māhele ʻia kahi kiʻi nahesa i ʻelua mau hana kūʻokoʻa ma ka papahele hale hana: kaʻaoʻao mea— pono e nānā ʻia ke kuhikuhi unahi e kūʻē i ke kaha kiʻi hoʻolālā i ke kahua koho ʻili i kūlike nā kāmaʻa ʻelua o kahi pālua, a pono e kūlike nā kauoha hou me ke kuhikuhi kala mua; a me kaʻaoʻao kūkulu— ʻo ka nahesa metala i ʻōwili ʻia a puni ka pou kuʻekuʻe wāwae, ma ke ʻano ʻenekinia, he pilikia kaʻana like ʻana i ka ukana ma waena o ka noho kuʻekuʻe wāwae, ka ʻauamo kila a me ka ʻāpana hoʻonaninani.
ʻEkolu mau palena paʻakikī:① he nahesa a he kuʻekuʻe wāwae kiʻi pahaʻaʻohe mea like ma mua o ka papa— hoʻomaka ia mai kahi kaha kiʻi a me kahi ʻōmole; ② pono nā kiko heleuma o ka ʻāpana hoʻonaninanie pale i ka hui ma waena o ka noho kuʻekuʻe wāwae a me ke koʻokoʻo kila— 1 mm i waho a wili ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae, a laila hana wehe ma hope o kekahi mau ʻaʻahu; ③ he pou kuʻekuʻe wāwae lahilahi o φ8–12 mmʻaʻole hiki ke lawe i kahi ʻōwili ʻili mānoanoa— hiki ke pīpī wale ʻia, uhi ʻia a uhi ʻia paha me ka PU lahilahi, no laila inā makemake ʻoe i kahi ʻili lima i wahī ʻia i ka ʻili, pono e hoʻomānoanoa ʻia ka pou i ke kahua kaha kiʻi.
Ke wāwahi ʻia ke ala holo, ʻekolu mau nīnau i koe:hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae, he aha ka mālama ʻana o ka ʻili e pono ai, a pehea e kūkulu ʻia ai ke alo. Holo mākou i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i ʻekolu mau pae a hoʻopaʻa i ka kikoʻī ma ka hopena o kēlā me kēia ma mua o ka neʻe ʻana - ʻo ke kumu wale nō ʻaʻole e neʻe ka hana nui mai ka laʻana. No kahi kuʻekuʻe wāwae kiʻi a nahesa paha, e haʻi mai iā mākou i ka hihia hoʻohana (hōʻike ʻāpana a i ʻole ke kapa o kēlā me kēia lā); hoʻoholo ia i ke kaʻina hana o ka ʻili.
Pae 1
ʻO ka hope a me ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae
Ke kiʻekiʻe o ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae, ke ʻano o ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae, a me ke kūpono ma waena o ke kaula kila a me ka noho kuʻekuʻe wāwae. Ua hoʻoheheʻe ʻia nā kuʻekuʻe wāwae kiʻi a me nā kuʻekuʻe wāwae ʻē ma ʻaneʻi.
Pae 2
ʻIli a me nā mea hana
Pīpī, hoʻoheheʻe metala ʻana i ka mīkini ʻūmiʻi, hoʻopili uila, ʻili a ʻōwili satin paha — me ka kuhikuhi kala o luna a me ke kuhikuhi unahi.
Pae 3
ʻAno a me ka hōʻoluʻolu
Ka ʻae ʻana o ka manamana wāwae, ke kihi o ka pāpale, ka lumi no ka wāwae mua a me ka paʻa ʻana o ke kīʻaha kuʻekuʻe wāwae - hōʻoia ʻia e ke komo ʻana ma mua o ka māka ʻana o ke ʻano hoʻohālike.
E hoʻouna mai iā mākou i kahi kiʻi a i ʻole kahi kāmaʻa kuhikuhi a pane mākou me ʻehā mau mea: inā hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae, ka ʻili hea e pono ai ke hana, pehea e hoʻohālikelike ʻia ai ke kila kila a me ka noho kuʻekuʻe wāwae, a pehea ke ʻano o nā pae hoʻohālike. ʻO MOQ100 mau pālua no kēlā me kēia kaila no ke kiʻekiʻe o ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae.
E hoʻouna i kahi kiʻi a i ʻole kāmaʻa kuhikuhi no kahi pane hiki ke hana