Irebere Ibigezweho · Impeshyi 2027 · Inkweto
Agatsinsino k'inzoka, ibuye ry'agaciro ku mwambaro w'ubururu, uruhu rw'inzoka, n'amano y'izahabu: inkweto enye zigezweho mu mpeshyi ya 2027
Ku itariki ya 29 Nzeri 2026, Saint Laurent yerekanye imyenda y'abagore yo mu mpeshyi ya 2027 muri Trocadéro i Paris — 49 muri 59 yagaragaye mu myambaro ya zahabu. Nyuma y'iminsi icumi, iyi nzu yemeje ko Anthony Vaccarello asoje imyaka icumi yamaze muri iyo mirimo, ibi bikaba byarahinduye isura ye. Inkweto za zahabu "zari zaraguye" mu nzira y'akazi maze ziba ikiganiro mu cyumweru cy'imideli cya Paris. Isuzuma ry'inkweto rya WWD ryagabanyije shampiyona mo ibintu bine; dukurikiza gahunda imwe.
Iki ni isuzuma ry’ibigezweho. Bisobanura ko nta bufatanye, uruhushya cyangwa umubano wo gukorana n’ikirango icyo ari cyo cyose cyavuzwe. Amashusho ya Runway ni inyandiko zitangazwa; uburenganzira buguma ku ba nyirayo kandi akoreshwa hano mu gutangaza ibigezweho gusa.
Impamvu iki gihembwe gikwiye gusomwa
Amakuru abiri: ikiganiro, hanyuma inzira yo gusohokera
Umuraba wa 1 · 29 Nzeri 2026, ikiganiro
Inkweto zari zitwikiriwe ubwazo
Ibiro by’inkweto bya WWD byitaga inkweto z’iyi koleri ikiganiro cya Paris Fashion Week, kandi byakoresheje inkweto eshatu mu minsi itatu: isuzuma ry’ibigezweho, ububiko bw’inkweto bwa hafi bufite amashusho 17, n’ububiko bw’inkweto zo ku murongo w’imbere.
Umuraba wa 2 · 9 Ukwakira 2026, inzira yo gusohokeramo
Igihe cy'imyaka icumi kirarangira
Ibihuha by’ibyumweru byinshi byo kugenda byemejwe ku ya 9 Ukwakira. WWD, Vogue, W Magazine, Harper's Bazaar, Wallpaper, The Cut na NYT byose byakurikiyeho, bikomeza ikiganiro mu byumweru bibiri.
Inkweto ubwazo zakozwe na Vaccarello hamwe n'umuyobozi wigenga ushinzwe gushushanya inkweto z'abagabo n'abagore muri iyo nzu,Corrado De Biase, watwaye insanganyamatsiko ya zahabu y'icyo cyegeranyo kugeza ku birenge. Iki gitaramo cyatanze ibikoresho byinshi byacyo: 59, 49 za mbere za zahabu, 10 za nyuma zambaye umukara; chandeliers eshatu nini za zahabu zimeze nk'amatara y'umukara hejuru y'ikibuga cy'indege cy'umukara. Amaduka acuruza ururimi rw'Igishinwa - Toodaylab, ELLE China, Forbes China, Sina, FashionNetwork.cn - yasohotse mu minsi ya mbere y'Ukwakira.
Kugira ngo upime igipimo ubwawe, ibipimo bitatu bya rubanda bikwiye kugenzurwa: niba Google Trends igera ku nshuro ebyiri ku ya 29 Nzeri na 9 Ukwakira, umubare w’ibipimo bya Weibo, n’aho ibihe bigeze ku rutonde rw’ibipimo byarebwe cyane muri Vogue Runway. Ntidutanga imibare y’ibipimo byarebwe idafite aho ituruka hashobora kwemezwa.
Icyerekezo cya 1 · Inguni ikomeye cyane
Inkweto z'inzoka zikozwe mu ishusho: abakinnyi b'indashyikirwa b'iki gihe bose bahagaze ku nzoka
Mu magambo ya WWD, imiterere itangaje cyane y'urutonde rw'abakinnyiyari ahagaze ku nkweto zigose kandi zimeze nk'inzoka zigenda zicikagurikaMuri icyo gitaramo kimwe, iminyururu y'icyuma yagaragaye ku nkweto nyinshi, bituma "bigaragaza ubwiza bworoshye kandi buhindagurika" - kuri zimwe mu nkweto iminyururu yageraga ku mano igahura n'ibuye rinini kandi rihenze hagati mu gitaramo.
Ni yo nguni ikomeye cyane y'umwaka w'imikino kukontibishobora gukurikirwa no guhindura ibara— agatsinsino kose gagomba kongera guhindurwa. Kandi icyo ni cyo kintu uruganda rw'inkweto rugomba kuba rushobora gusubiza.
Icyerekezo cya 2 · Iminyururu ya giligi n'amabuye y'agaciro kuri vamp
Iminyururu ku mano, ihura n'ibuye rimwe ry'agaciro hagati mu cyuma
Igice cya kabiri cya WWD niiminyururu y'icyuma ya zahabu, ikoreshwa ku nkweto nyinshi kugira ngo yubake "ubwiza bworoshye kandi buhindagurika". Ubwoko buzwi cyane: iminyururu igera ku mano, igakwirakwira hejuru y'ikirenge nouhure n'ibuye rinini kandi rihenze riri hagati mu nzu y'abavomyiZahabu hano si agace k'ibara - ni umurongo umwe w'imirongo.
Uburyo bwa 3 · Gushushanya uruhu rw'inzoka n'ibihuru
Inzoka ikomeza ijya hejuru: beige, ubururu, n'ishusho ituje y'inyamaswa zo mu bwoko bwa reptile ku rutoki
WWD ivuga ko hari inkweto zimwe na zimwe zagaragayemouruhu rw'inzoka rufite amabara nka beige cyangwa ubururuizindi nkweto zari zipfutse umunyururu zari zitwayeibishushanyo by'ibisimba bya zahabu bito birambuye ku rutokiMu gihembwe kimwe inzoka yicara ku gatsinsino no hejuru — icya mbere ni ikibazo cy’imiterere y’inyamaswa, icya kabiri ni ikibazo cy’uruhu.
Icyerekezo cya 4 · Imipira ya zahabu ifite agapira k'inyuma
Izahabu yimuriwe ku rutoki: imipira yo mu bwoko bwa "cap-toe slingbacks" yambaye satin, ibirenge bityaye n'udupira twaciwe kare
Icyerekezo cya kane niagapira k'izahabu: urutonde rw'ipompo zo mu bwoko bwa slingback zifite umupfundikizo w'icyuma ugaragara ku rutoki, zifite ibimenyetso bibiri by'inzu —amano maremare atyayenavampire zaciwe kareImibiri yari ya satin, mu mabara atandukanye kuva ku mabara y'amabuye y'agaciro kugeza ku mabara adafite aho ahuriye n'imibiri.
Igikomeye kurusha ifaranga rimwe niuburyo byagaragajwe: iyo pompe imwe yagaragaye mu ibara ry'umutuku, umutuku wijimye, icyatsi kibisi cyijimye, umukara, umuhengeri n'umukara —ishusho imwe yafashwe yose ku ikarita y'ibaraBisubiramo ishingiro ry'ibyo byakusanyijwe: inzu yasobanuye ko zahabu yemereraga umuhanga mu by'ubwubatsi gushakisha"imbaraga zo gusubiramo", uburyo yari amaze gusuzuma ishusho y’ibishushanyo mbonera - zahabu yimbitse, zahabu ya Byzantine, zahabu y’umukara, zahabu ya Renaissance, zahabu idakomeye, zahabu ya Art Deco, zahabu ishyushye. Ku kibuga cy’indege, bigaragaza ishusho ikirango giteganya gukoresha nk’iy’ingenzi; mu bucuruzi, bivuze guhindura amabwiriza.
Yves Saint Laurent ku ibara: "Nkunda zahabu, ni ibara ry'ubumaji. Iyo ugaragaza umugore, ni ibara ry'izuba." Muri iki gihembwe, iyo nteruro yari yubatswe mu nkweto.
Uko igwa mu ruganda
Imiterere ine, ibibazo bitatu ku ruhande rwacu
Urugero rwa mbere · agatsinsino k'inzoka
Kuva ku murundo w'uruhu rwanditseho python kugeza ku nzoka izingiye ku gatsinsino
Igishushanyo cy'inzoka kigabanyijemo imirimo ibiri yigenga mu ruganda:uruhande rw'ibikoresho— icyerekezo cy'ubugari kigomba kugenzurwa ukurikije igishushanyo cy'igishushanyo mu gihe cyo gutora uruhu kugira ngo inkweto zombi zihuze, hamwe n'ivugurura ry'amabara bigomba guhuza n'ibara ry'umwimerere; kandiuruhande rw'imiterere— inzoka y'icyuma izungurutse ku nkingi y'agatsinsino, mu buryo bw'ubuhanga, ni ikibazo cyo gusangira imizigo hagati y'intebe y'agatsinsino, icyuma n'igice cy'imitako.
Inzitizi eshatu zikomeye:① inzoka cyangwa agatsinsino gashushanyijenta kintu na kimwe gihwanye n'icyo— Bihera ku gishushanyo n'ibumba; ② ingingo z'ingenzi z'igice cy'imitako zigombairinde aho intebe y'agatsinsino n'icyuma gifunganye bihurira— Kurekura mm 1 hanyuma agatsinsino karahinda, hanyuma kagakora gasagutse nyuma yo kwangirika gato; ③ inkingi y'agatsinsino gato ka mm φ8–12ntashobora gufata agapfunyika k'uruhu kanini— ishobora gusa gupfukwa, gusigwa cyangwa gupfukwa na PU ntoya, bityo niba ushaka ikintu gipfunyitse mu ruhu, inkingi igomba kuba ikomeye mu gihe cyo gushushanya.
Iyo inzira y'indege imaze kwangirika, hasigaye ibibazo bitatu:Ese agatsinsino gashobora guhindurwa, ni ubuhe buryo bwo kuvura ubuso, kandi igice cyo imbere cyubatswe gute?Dukoresha iterambere mu byiciro bitatu hanyuma tugafunga ibipimo biri ku mpera ya buri kimwe mbere yo gukomeza — intego yonyine ni uko umusaruro mwinshi udahinduka uturutse ku rugero. Ku bijyanye n'agatsinsino k'ibishushanyo cyangwa agatsinsino k'inzoka, tubwire n'uburyo gakoreshwa (reba igice cyangwa imyambaro ya buri munsi); ni byo bigena inzira y'ubuso.
Icyiciro cya 1
Icya nyuma n'agatsinsino
Uburebure bw'agatsinsino, imiterere y'agatsinsino, n'aho gashyirwa hagati y'agatsinsino k'icyuma n'intebe y'agatsinsino. Aha hantu hakozwe inkweto zishushanyije n'izidasanzwe.
Icyiciro cya 2
Ubuso n'ibikoresho
Spray, vacuum metallising, electroplating, uruhu cyangwa satin wrap — hamwe n'ibara ryo hejuru n'icyerekezo cy'umunzani.
Icyiciro cya 3
Imiterere n'ihumure
Uburyo bwo gufata ibirenge, inguni y'umupfundikizo, umwanya w'ikirenge n'agapira ko gufata agatsinsino - byemezwa n'uburyo byambaye mbere yuko igishushanyo gishyirwa mu byiciro.
Twoherereze igishushanyo cyangwa inkweto y'icyitegererezo hanyuma dusubize ibintu bine: niba agatsinsino gashobora gucurwa, uburyo gakwiye gukoreshwa mu gutunganya ubuso, uburyo agatsinsino k'icyuma n'intebe y'agatsinsino bigomba guhuzwa, ndetse n'uko ingero z'ibipimo zimeze. MOQ niImpande 100 kuri buri bwoko kuri buri burebure bw'agatsinsino.
Ohereza inkweto ishushanyije cyangwa iy'icyitegererezo kugira ngo ubone igisubizo cy'uko bishoboka