Te Mataara Auaha · Te Kōanga 2027 · Ngā Hu

He rekereke nakahi, he taonga i te wā e takaro ana, he kiri nakahi, me ngā matimati koura: ngā momo hu e whā o te kōanga 2027

I te 29 o Hepetema 2026, i whakaatuhia e Saint Laurent tana kohinga kākahu wahine o te puna 2027 ki te Trocadéro i Parī — 49 o ngā kākahu 59 i puta mai i te koura. Tekau ngā rā i muri mai, i whakapumautia e te whare kua mutu te mahi tekau tau a Anthony Vaccarello, ā, i huri ai te whakaaturanga hei poroporoaki māna. I "ngāwari" ngā hū koura i te ara whakaata, ā, i noho hei kōrero mō te Wiki Ahua o Parī. I wehea e te arotake hū a WWD te wā kia whā ngā momo ahua; ka whai mātou i te raupapa kotahi.

He tirohanga auaha tēnei. Kāore e kīia ana he hononga mahi tahi, he raihana, he hononga kirimana rānei ki tētahi waitohu kua whakahuatia. He rauemi pāpāho ngā whakaahua o te ara whakaata; kei ō rātou rangatira ngā mana, ā, e whakamahia ana i konei mō te pūrongo auaha anake.

Auaha 1 · Te koki tino kaha

He rekereke nakahi whakairo: ko ngā mea tino rongonui o te wā i tū katoa i runga i te nakahi

E ai ki a WWD, ko ngā momo kāhua tino whakamiharo o te rārangii tū i runga i ngā rekereke piko, whakairo, e rite ana ki ngā nakahi e ngokingoki anaI roto i taua whakaaturanga anō, i puta mai ngā mekameka whakarewa koura i runga i ētahi hu, e hanga ana i "te āhua o te ataahua ngawari me te hihiri" — i ētahi momo kāhua i toro atu ngā mekameka ki ngā matimati ka tūtaki ki tētahi kohatu nui, whakapaipai i waenganui o te hu.

Koinei te koki tino kaha o te wā nā te meakāore e taea te whai i te whakarerekētanga tae— me whakahou te tinana o te rekereke katoa. Ā, koinei tonu te wāhanga me taea e te wheketere hu te whakautu.

Auaha 2 · Ngā mekameka koura me te taonga i te vamp

Ngā mekameka puta noa i ngā matimati, e tūtaki ana ki tētahi kohatu kotahi i waenganui o te vamp

Ko te tuarua o ngā wāhanga o te WWDmekameka whakarewa kua whakakikoruatia, e whakamahia ana i roto i ētahi hu hei hanga i taua "ataahua, hihiri hoki". Ko te momo tino mōhiotia: ka toro atu ngā mekameka puta noa i ngā matimati, ka horapa ki runga i te waewae, ā,tūtaki ki tētahi kohatu nui, whakapaipai i waenganui o te vampEhara te koura i konei i te poraka tae — engari he huinga rārangi.

Auaha 4 · He whitiki tuara koura me ngā matimati

I neke te koura ki te matimati: ngā takai tuara o te taupoki-mati i roto i te satin, ngā matimati koi me ngā huruhuru tapawhā-tapawhā

Ko te tuawhā o ngā ia ko tete matimati koura: he rārangi o ngā papu slingback me te taupoki whakarewa e kitea nuitia ana i te matimati, e pupuri ana i ngā waitohu whare e rua —ngā matimati koi roamengā vamp tapawhāHe hiraka ngā tinana, he rerekē ngā tae mai i ngā tae kōhatu ki ngā tae kūpapa.

Ko te mea nui atu i tētahi takirua kotahi kote āhua i whakaaturia ai rātou: ko te papu kotahi i horapa ki te whero, te whero whero, te kakariki pouri, te parauri, te papura me te mangu —kotahi te āhua e tangohia ana puta noa i te kāri taeHe rite tonu ki te ariā o te kohinga: i whakamārama te whare ko te koura te mea e āhei ai te kaihoahoa ki te tūhura"te mana o te tāruarua", te huarahi i tūhuratia ai e ia te āhua o te atarangi o mua — te koura hohonu, te koura Byzantine, te koura mā, te koura Renaissance, te koura matte, te koura Art Deco, te koura kanapa. I runga i te ara whakaata, ka tohu i te āhua e hiahia ana te waitohu ki te whakatairanga hei momo matua; i te taha pakihi, ko te tikanga he tono anō.

Yves Saint Laurent mō te tae: "He pai ki ahau te koura, he tae makutu. Ki te whakaata i te wahine, ko te tae o te rā." I tēnei wā, i whakauruhia taua rerenga kōrero ki roto i ngā hu.