- Although most shoes today are mass-produced, handcrafted shoes are still made on a limited scale especially for performers or in designs that are heavily ornamented and expensive. The hand manufacture of shoes is essentially the same as the process dating back to ancient Rome. The length and width of both of the wearer’s feet are measured. Lasts—standard models for feet of each size that are made for each design—are used by the shoemaker to shape the shoe pieces. Lasts need to be specific to the design of the shoe because the symmetry of the foot changes with the contour of the instep and distribution of weight and the parts of the foot within the shoe. Creation of a pair of lasts is based on 35 different measurements of the foot and estimates of movement of the foot within the shoe. Shoe designers often have thousands of pairs of lasts in their vaults.
- The pieces for the shoe are cut based on the design or style of the shoe. The counters are the sections covering the back and sides of the shoe. The vamp covers the toes and top of the foot and is sewn onto the counters. This sewn upper is stretched and fitted over the last; the shoemaker uses stretching pliers
- to pull the parts of the shoe into place, and these are tacked to the last.
Soaked leather uppers are left on the lasts for two weeks to dry thoroughly to shape before the soles and heels are attached. Counters (stiffeners) are added to the backs of the shoes. - Leather for the soles is soaked in water O so that it is pliable. The sole is then cut, placed on a lapstone, and pounded with a mallet. As the name suggests, the lapstone is held flat in the shoemaker’s lap so he can pound the sole into a smooth shape, cut a groove into the edge of the sole to indent the stitching, and mark holes to punch through the sole for stitching. The sole is glued to the bottom of the upper so it is properly placed for sewing. The upper and the sole are stitched together using a double-stitch method in which the shoemaker weaves two needles through the same hole but with the thread going in opposite directions.
- Heels are attached to the sole by nails; depending on the style, the heels may be constructed of several layers. If it is covered with leather or cloth, the covering is glued or stitched onto the heel before it is attached to the shoe. The sole is trimmed and the tacks are removed so the shoe can be taken off the last. The outside of the shoe is stained or polished, and any fine linings are attached inside the shoe.
Post time: Dec-17-2021
